Dial M for Murder (or Minneapolis)

I couldn't resist the mention of the Twin Cities in The Economist. Apparently, Twin Cities' writers produce more than their share of crime noir literature. Advertising and journalism are deemed as two breeding grounds. Notwithstanding:

"...there is the weather, which is splendidly atmospheric. The Twin Cities have hot summers and wildly erratic autumns and springs—a gift to mystery writers in search of colour. Winter is grim. As Brian Freeman, who has published a crime novel set in Duluth, in northern Minnesota, explains: “What is there to do during those long winter months beside sit inside and think dark thoughts of murder and mayhem?”'

Wow. and I thought Ohio winters were grim.

Hypothetical replay

August 10, 2006

6:57 am: Car is packed. Nothing else can fit.
7:12 am: Start driving east.
7:15 am: Turn around to get sunglasses which are reminiscent of Sophia Loren.
7:17 am: Start driving east again. Prepare to have heart attack due to gas prices.

7:24 am: Realize that self has forgotten to pack bag with jeans and shorts. Panic sets in.
7:25 am: Co-driver refuses to let driver turn around to get said bag.
7:26 am: Driver remembers that entirety of underwear collection is in said bag.
7:27 am: Panic does not subside.

11:34 am: Pass traditional road landmark: a gigantic grinning pumpkin sitting atop a silo.
11:35 am: Call sister to inform her about gigantic grinning pumpkin.
11:37 am: Inform sister about missing bag. Demands immediate shipment to prevent self from wearing only mini-skirts until Labor Day.

1:01 pm: Sister calls back. Bag not found at home.
1:34 pm: Sigh of relief. Underwear must be safe in car.

Quantum Quotation

A few friends and I went to the new Guthrie Theater in St. Paul last week to see one of our favorite books performed onstage, The Great Gatsby. I do love much of Fitzgerald's writing. In the play's program, there is a great quote by E.L. Doctorow, describing Fitzgerald:

[Fitzgerald] jumped right into the foolish heart of everything.... he was intellectually ambitious - but thought fashion was important, gossip, good looks, the company of celebrities. He wrote as a rebel, a sophisticate, an escapee from American provincialism- but was blown away by society, like a country bumpkin, and went everywhere he was invited. Ambivalently willed, he lived as both a particle and wave.

And that's the nerdy quotation for the day.

A true midwesterner

I will echo K's earlier post that roadtrips are the way to experience the countryside. However, please conveniantly forget that the midwest lacks the public transportation that other parts of the United States and other countries rely on for their daily transportation. It is enough to drive through cornfields and come across the unexpected.

"For a transitory enchanted moment man must have held his breath in the presence of this continent, compelled into an aesthetic contemplation he neither understood nor desired, face to face for the last time in history with something commensurate [with] his capacity for wonder." --F. Scott Fitzgerald--

The countryside is gorgeous. Northern Minneota has its own charm that is unique from southern Minnesota and especially North Dakota.

Like a stream that meets a boulder

One of the highlights these past two summers has been the Great American Roadtrips. Vanilla coke, Starbucks Frappuchinos, goldfish crackers, cheez-its, RENT, Wicked!, the Dixie Chicks, and many more old friends.

Our last road trip of the summer (and our last one together for a very long time) was a visit to Bemidji, MN. In many ways, it's like a time warp. Northern MN has the smell of towering white pines and cold, freshwater lakes. And the summer camps there? Look like you've stepped out of The Parent Trap (the old one, with Hayley Mills)

Must admit, the Mississippi headwaters are anticlimatic in the extreme. Before I left town, someone suggested that K and I wear life jackets when we crossed the river. In truth? It barely covered our ankles. The famed headwaters trickle out of Lake Itasca in a sandy pool.

For those who enjoy the Great Outdoors vicariously, I've included photos of the 18 foot high statue of Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox. Pictured below are the Mississippi headwaters themselves.

Lucky Liver Day

I missed a great photo op at the Twins-Indians baseball game. The mascots from a number of local businesses played a T-ball softball game beforehand. About 15-20 mascots were present, with two walleyes as the umpires.

Goldie the Gopher (U of MN), Crunch (MN Timberwolves), Mudonna (the cheeky pig for the St Paul Saints), Lynx mascot, and of course, T.C. (MN Twins) had an advantage, being accustomed to athletic sports. Having arms and legs and visibility probably didn't hurt either. I give credit to Spam and Turkey Spam for being cans with legs too. In comparison, the letter "K" and the Applebees' apple didn't quite make the cut.

What took the MVP honors was the large pink liver. Today was "Love your liver" day at the Metrodome, courtesy of the American Liver Association. Clearly, this was the largest and the hardest working organ on the field. With not too much visibility and essentially no arm maneuvering ability, this liver was tripping and falling and gamely chasing after "line drives."

So you can imagine my surprise when the liver smacked an inside the park HR. Touch-em-all, liver. You kept the game close.

Looking back

The few that I have talked with lately keep asking what my favorite city in Italy was. Each city has an entirely different feel, whether it is a small or large town and is located in the north or the south. Firenze and Roma versus Lago di Como and Positano.

Perhaps that is why K and I attempted to read the Italian newspapers (in Italian) and to understand the voting points of the latest referendum (June 25-26) and who is on what side. The regional loyalties and the backstabbing politics (as seen in football too) we began to see during our travels. We did not understand every point, but got the gist of the referendum; namely, that new powers would be given to each house in the Parliament, regional governments would be given greater decision-making power, and the prime minister would be given more political power.

Italian politics are confusing and exciting. As The Economist writes,

But Italians are not Spaniards. They traditionally reserve their loyalties not for their region, but for their home town or city. It was not, therefore, surprising that they voted to throw the measure out. What was surprising was the size of the majority (61%-39%), and the relatively high turnout of 52%—the highest in any Italian referendum for over a decade. This was not just a bill that most voters disliked; it was one they seemed determined to kill.

Calabria had a resounding "no" vote, against Berlosconi and against big business (Calabria is in the poor South, the "real Italy" as we were told).

So much more to read about. But for now, Italy is immersed in World Cup fever. On July 9, its streets will be deserted as everyone rushes for the nearest coffee bar and the country pursues its other passion: football.

KB Squared

Apart from jet lag, I'm still suffering from a bit of World Cup fever. It's a conspiracy that the games are on ESPN, so I couldn't watch the Germany-Italy game. I can just hear the horns honking in Roma right now.

Ciao bella!

The Romans are friendly. Got a bit lost trying to find the Spanish steps, a la Roman Holiday tour. Nice gentleman pointed us in the correct direction and sent us on our merry way with a kiss on the cheek and a "Ciao belle." Next morning, ate breakfast by the fountain in the Piazza della Republica. Another gentleman stops by to inform us that twins are good luck and that we are the most beautiful twins in Rome, the city of love. (Roma spelled backwards is amor). Sent himself off to work with a wave and the words "Ciao belle" to us.

Currently, mixing with the Germans in Bolzano and Merano. The y and the z are switched on the keyboard.


Arrivederci

Kellz and Karlz

World Cup 2006

World Cup fever is impressive in Europe. Every night, you walk by a cafe, you see the TV turned on to a match. No one in the ristorante or caffè is talking; their eyes are glued to the game. It's more of a national pride deal than the Olympics, from what I gather.

It's actually harder to understand what is happening with Italian football (calcio, soccer, whatever you want to call it) over here because I can't really read the newspaper headlines very well. However, from what I understand, maybe it's better that I'm not reading the major papers:

If the Americans wonder what the world thought of its awful debut, the
Italian newspapers were not kind. Corriere della Sera gave the United States a
rating of 4 out of 10, the lowest of the early matches. It accused the Americans
of making "banal, old amateur errors."

Mostly, the Italian news media has written about Saturday's match as if
understatement will bring a red card. La Repubblica said, "If we are playing to
save the face of Italian soccer, they are playing to save the pride of the
little boys and girls in oversized shorts who in the fall invade the suburbs
chasing after a ball."

Not to be outdone, La Stampa wrote that the match for the United States
is "a question of life or death, like when Custer attacked the Indians."

Gladiators and Nuns, Oh My!

I cannot say that Rome is my favorite city in Italy, but it certainly has its characters. Today we went on the Roman ruins tour (aka Coliseum and Palantine Hill), saw where Julius Caesar was burned, and then pretended to be statues in the Coliseum. Outside of the massive arches were the fake gladiators who want you to take pictures of them and then pay them loads of money. We took our picture with care from a distance.....

I wish I knew more Roman history. Too much of my knowledge of the Coliseum comes from movies, such as Gladiator and Ben Hur.

Also cannot describe how many churches there are in this city. Yesterday K and I wandered into a random church. It was under renovation, so it smelled of paint. It was impressive and chilly, nonetheless. St. Peter's in the Vatican was impressive for its size, and I loved the Sistine Chapel within the Vatican museum. Cannot express what it was like to stare up at the ceiling at the stories from Genesis and see the "spark of life" overhead. Yet I guess I never realized how many nuns, priests, and monks that I would see walking around the city. Of course, the papal procession was something to behold and probably the reason why it is so crowded here as well. Neither K or I had the desire to actually enter the church where Audrey Hepburn stuck her hand in the lion's mouth. But we waited in line to stick our hands into that wall! (Unfortunately, that line seemed to be longer than the Coliseum)

Tomorrow is Assisi and the Church of St. Francis. Then up to the Italian Alps!

vacanza romana

For the first and only time, I'm checking internet on consecutive days. Some people do Da Vinci Code/Angels and Demons runs in Roma. We attempt to find the sites in Roman Holiday. sigh. Found Santa Maria of Cosmedine, where G. Peck and A. Hepburn put their hands in the sun's mouth as a ritual to see if they are liars. Had to wait in line behind literally a busload of Japanese tourists.

And of course, we are going to the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish steps. Such hot sticky days, I don't know how any stars in the movie never break a sweat.

Wines and Whines

As mentioned earlier, we did go wine tasting in the Chianti region. Call it snobby, but we managed to arrive in the hill town of Radda during their wine festival. So we tasted all of the Chianti Classico, particularly the Riserva, to our palate's delight. Talking with the vineyard owners, I gained a greater appreciation for the science and culturing behind each bottle of wine. Each year, the vineyard will produce much different wines. 2001 and 2003 were overall good years, but 2002 was not. It definitely is apparent in the tastes and the bouquet. I found that I loved the wines that sat in the bottles. Our poor parents will enjoy our wine that we have bought... but only in three to five years.

It took us awhile to get the hang of tasting the wine, rather than drinking it. After all, many owners will pour a quarter of a glass for optimal aroma. Use your imagination as we definitely were in good spirits after tasting wine over several blocks of tables. Thankfully the buses run late and we caught the bus with seconds to spare. Unfortunately, Tuscany is not known for being flat and the bus ride was tortuous at best.

We met up with Lily in Roma and traveled to the central south of Italy. Pompeii was incredible, though we spent too much time in the bakeries. And we took many pictures of the stairs. The most common question during that portion was whether we were Japanese or Chinese or Korean tourists. The answer was yes to all three questions. That really confused the street vendors as they thought we were siblings or something!

Though K and I are not going to be able to finish our entire regional experiment plan to the south of Italy, due to transportation and scheduling difficulties, we did experience the chaos of the South. (Perhaps a road trip will be in order next year.) After barely catching the train to Roma from Napoli, we realized the train was not moving. Surprise! Train strike on June 15. Randomly occurs every so often due to high levels of unemployment. This is according to good ol' Putnam. So true.

With that chaos, we found a couple of students who spoke English and Italian. We pushed our way onto the buses that were meant for the Eurostar (more expensive train than we can afford to travel on between cities) passengers and had a hot bus ride to Roma via the Autostrada. Thank goodness we travel with bookbags and a plastic bag of food.

those crazy little Lutheran girls....

The contact that we've had with the Catholic Church and its history has been extraordinatry. I have almost lost count of the number of small churches and large Duomos (cathedrals) into which we have wandered. Each has its own charm. The Florence and Siena ones were amazing and represented as much of the city as it did the religion. The whole vita civile deal. (Yes, all IPHS'ers, I did see the Lorenzetti painting in Siena). I can now recognize the differences between the austere Franciscan churches (the exception being the Firenze Duomo) and the slightly more ornate Dominican.

Also, each town has its own patron saint to venerate: St. Catherine of Siena, St. Margherite of Cortona, St. Francis of Assisi. What I still don't understand is the veneration of relics. I can stomach the tunics and cloths which wiped away blood, but I do not quite understand the worshiping of actual body parts (the right thumb, the head, the tongue, etc). Also still do not understand or completely follow the Catholic veneration of the Virgin Mary. What is the Doctrine of the Immaculate Conception of Mary which apparently was heavily debated to accord with the ideas of original sin?

Currently we are in Rome. Luck of the Irish allowed us to see the Pope, Benedicto XVI! We arrived on Corpus Christi Day (does anyone know the significance)? He drove down the street on which our hostel was located. Well, we wanted a better view, so we waited 2.5 hours outside the church for 'front row' spots. Church music and Latin intonations for most of that time blared from the speakers set up. The tenor solo in particular was amazing. Breathtaking. The parade of nuns, monks, priests, cardinals, bishops, archbishops, and the Pope himself in his bulletproof Popemobile were a site to see. Clearly, many of the religious figures had traveled from all over the world, bringing with them similar clothing and different banners. We had a view from the time that he drove past to his walk up the Santa Maria Maggiore steps to the placing of his hat on his head and his walk into the cathedral. Amazing.

Then today, we went to the Vatican. Honestly, this museum was the best €12 I have spent on a museum. The Sistine Chapel and the School of Athens. I couldn't take my eyes off either piece. Almost overwhelming how much great art is stored there. Kar and I did buy a rosary and box for our 98 year old great-aunt. While we aren't buying too many gifts (apart from those for our parents, who are both getting Chianti that needs to be aged a couple more years), we figured this would tickle our aunt's fancy. Also went to St. Peter's Basilica. Incredibly large with some incredible statues (especially Michaelangelo's Pieta). Sadly, am not as familiar with the story of St. Peter and his upside down cross.

And yes, our next stop is Assisi to see the hometown of St. Francis.

il Vino

One of my goals in Italy was to learn about Italian wine. Thus far, I can say that I have sampled quite a few. Over 4000 different kinds in Italy. Met a wine snob who explained how to swirl wine and check for so called 'legs.' Wines with higher concentrations of sulfites, such as those in Napa Valley CA, have higher concentrations of sulfites. Italian wines (especially reds) have much lower or no sulfites. As such, I'm much better off with Italian reds. Joyous thought.

I really want to try Brunello di Montelcino, but I have tried quite a few others: Cortona Sangiovese (mild, fruity with bitter tart aftertaste), the Cinque Terre sweet white wine (allergy!), grappa (42% alcohol content soooo strong), Chianti AND Chianti Classico. Yes, I'm a snob since I can taste the difference between good and cheap wine. But I'll drink either as long as it is in a glass bottle when I buy it. Rosso di Montalcino also tasted good.

Hopefully, I'll spend the day in the Chianti region tomorrow. Today didn't work out, but the sights in Siena (both the Palazzo Publico as well as the Duomo) were amazing. Then, it's off to Naples and Sorrento and Pompeii to meet a friend who is flying in from Ireland.

Our Italian Regional Experiment

Parlo un po italiano. So far, Italy has been pretty (Lake Como and Cinque Terre) and ugly (Genova). Yet the stories and adventures have begun.

First, we discovered that when hiking up a mountain, wear more than summer clothes and bring a snack. The three of us forgot that it gets colder and colder at higher altitudes. Our 7 hour hike was without food, so we ended up being famished, cold, and tired. My hands swelled and become red and frozen. It was so cold at one point that we had snow. But the sun returned and we overall enjoyed the hike. The view of Lago di Como was incredible.

Importantly, we have learned a smattering of broken Italian, thanks to the phrase books. We can now order cheese by the kilogram and generally will be enjoying local wines. The markets are useful, though we must come well-prepared with carefully memorized phrases until we have completely caught onto the grammar rules. All my Spanish is returning, which is not helpful. Definitely think that the brain has a certain region that is activated for language...

Menaggio e Fermaggio

Wow, I loved il Lago di Como area. Exactly what I pictured Northern Italy to be. All cobblestone streets and narrow alleyways. the people, the cheese! No, we have not gotten hit by a car that is rolling down stairs. Yes, I ate banana gelato the first night. The sky is beautiful, the language is gorgeous, and the smells emanating from the shops are heavenly. My calves ache after climbing mountains, and we have taken 128 MB of fotos. My crash course in Italian 101 is failing but I can order train tickets with the best of them.

It snowed in the mountains. and I'm still afraid of heights. My backpack is too small and the shoes are amazing (but I can't buy them).

motives

In one of many great scenes in 'The Constant Gardener', Fiennes tells his pregnant wife Tessa (Rachel Weisz) that they cannot give a young woman, her baby, and her son a ride. He argues that there are too many people that need to be helped. She would start with this family. The argument uncomfortably ends with Justin's decision. He has to look after Tessa's health and drives away.

It's a scene that is repeated over and over in this movie, not just with Justin but with those that Justin encounters. Justin, in this scene, reminds me of myself and pretty much everyone I know. All seem to be solid, nice people who wants to protect those they love at the cost of those they don't know. Somehow, I found this affability more disturbing than the premise of large pharmaceutical companies warping drug tests to produce more favorable results.

Notwithstanding, the chemist and doctor in me is still disturbed by this imagery, especially when it contrasts sharply with Tessa's exclamations at the beginning of the movie about nevarapine and its preventive powers for mother-to-child HIV transmission. If, as a character observes that "no drug company does something for nothing," then is it a monolith of people or individuals who are responsible?

Is it enough to know that if you cannot help everyone that you should not help anyone? What inspires people to act?

Note: Fernando Meirelles directed "City of God," another equally thought-provoking movie.

A marriage of conveniance

I must be slipping in my Scottish Politics as I did not notice the news report of "...the descent of a beam in March that nearly wiped out the Tory delegation and closed the debating chamber for two months..." (Economist, 05.18.06).

The Economist is right in its analysis of Scotland and devolution. The Scottish do spend much time concentrating on why they are not English.

Another story of interest....

Without ever knowing the way

Perhaps I'm biased, but I do consider road-tripping across the country to be distinctly American. Think The Grapes of Wrath or On the Road. I've played too many games of Oregon Trail and heartiliy sung too many renditions of the Dixie Chicks' "Wide Open Spaces" to believe that the flat American heartland isn't something to be experienced at least once in the car. I've driven from MN to OH and from OH to PA and NJ this year, all in the company of friends. I'm still not quite sure which is the "armpit" of America: Gary, IN or New Jersey.

What passes by on the billboards speaks worlds about the area: Pauxatawny Phil, Adlai Stevenson's birthplace (Bloomington, IL), Wisconsin Cheese, resorts that promise to teach you how to surf in landlocked areas, and gun control warnings (southern IL):

Tested in peace
Proven in war
Guns at home
Even the score
GunsSaveLife.com

Currently, K and I have almost finished our 1000 mile jaunt through the rural reaches of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and Wisconsin. No topic is too sacred to be dissected: cherry coke, European politics, friendships, gun control, professors, relationships, and sustenance. We've rarely stopped in the little family restaurants that dot the countryside, but then again, we stop only for gas, restrooms, and to buy more goldfish crackers. We were fortunate to have only blue skies and fuel efficiency that ranged from 36.8-41.3 mpg. All in all, a good trip.

And yes, K, according to the sign in Indiana with large letters: JeSuS is ReAl.